back to jailhouse

Due to the shitty weather it looks like i'll be heading back up to Jailhouse this weekend for more sport climbing. At this point i feel like i have to finish Fugitive 13a, Natasha sent last weekend and now i have to catch up with her. At least it's real rock and it should be mostly dry.

Tonight i'm heading to the city for a bouldering session at PG, tomorrow i rest, Saturday i send! Next week starts more serious regimented training, lots of dungeon sessions, hang board workouts, campus board workouts and a fuck ton of core workouts. Hopefully the valley will dry up in the next week or so and stay that way for march. SO fucking psyched to boulder in Yosemite this spring, i really want to do some trad climbing too.

Training sessions

Tuesday was a good training day. Climbed a little and did a bunch of campus board shit, 1-5-8 is starting to feel pretty easy on both sides which is a big improvement since 2 weeks ago i was struggling pretty hard to get it on only 1 side and couldn't even do it on the other.

Wednesday was also a super good training day. I warmed up at ironworks with santi, met Natasha there and we went to the dungeon for an awesome session. Santi finished the problem he was working on last time, Natasha did super well finding the hard to find foot holds and looked strong, and i made some pretty good progress on some new problems i haven't tried before and hiked the problems that were giving me some trouble at the last session.

Despite my left shoulder feeling FUCKED (can't dead hang from it), i'm feeling really good about this week and can't wait to train more next week before heading out to the Valley to see if any of this shit is worth it.

Jailhouse this weekend, the Valley the next! SO psyched!

Bishop Valentines Day Weekend

Well I can't speak for Jeremy but I'm still pretty stoked on Bishop.
My Valentines Day weekend was spent trying new, harder climbs where I wasn't really focused so much on sending, but more on just figuring out how the climbs worked. I tried High Plains Drifter, Saigon and Yayoi Right in the Buttermilks - I tried Every Color You Are, Action Figure and Cholos in the Happys and got completely shut down by Erotic Terrorist and Kung Fu Grip in the Sads (That shit is hard). But regardless, they were all good experiences. I'm delighted to say that I made it farther on these climbs than expected and can't wait for the colder temperatures again next fall to start seriously working on them. I will for sure be making another trip out there though this spring.
I also sent my first V6! Mr. Witty in the Happys. What an awesome feeling. Last trip I did V3: Solarium, V4: Mothership Connect, V5: Serengeti, and now this trip sending V6, respectively. It's always good to make progress!!
I did hurt my shoulder and will be taking a week or two off, but am definitely looking forward to start working on routes for the spring and can't wait to see Yosemite again: it's been entirely too long since I've set foot in the Valley! I've always gotten shut down on boulder problems there, but am really excited to see what I can do now! Maybe I'll even follow someone up some trad routes!

Bishop

Bishop was warm and SUPER FUCKING crowded this weekend (i expected the crowds, not the heat). I didn't send anything, fell off a bunch of shit i tried to repeat, basically i had an "off" day all weekend. Not a total failure, it was super nice and sunny which were excellent conditions for relaxing, drinking beer and hanging out with friends. I think after this past weekend i'm over the east side for the rest of the year. Time to head to The Valley.

Dungeon Session

I went over to the dungeon on sunday to get a good workout in before leaving for bishop on thursday. Over all it was a good session, i felt strong in some areas and not so strong in others but that's ok. Santi came with me for his first Dungeon experience, he was pretty psyched on the place and made some good progress on some of the problems there. Wednesday it's back to the Dungeon for 1 last training session before leaving for the long weekend. I'm fucking PSYCHED to get back to bishop and get some shit done.

BISHOP BOUND!

Dex and I are heading out to the east side this Thursday for a short 3 day bouldering mission. We're both super psyched to get back to some projects and get some shit done. Our friend Will and his buddies are down there now and his reports lead me to believe the buttermilks should be fairly dry. Tomorrow night it's off to the Dungeon for a heavy training session in hopes of wrecking my hands (in the good way) in preparation for that amazing buttermilk rock. SO fucking psyched!

Routes?

I've spent the last 2 weekends climbing routes up at Jailhouse. I'm not %100 sure how i feel about it but it has been pretty fun. Being a boulderer i've found the endurance game quite a challenge, i know i can do all the moves on these long ass boulder problems, it's just a matter of linking 60+ feet of over hanging V4. The route Fugitive 5.13a has grabbed my attention and has me pretty psyched to go back and finish, it has a casual start(30 feet of maybe 12a), that turns into a V5ish crux that involves a pretty awesome dyno off some small holds to a bucket followed by another sweet dyno to another bucket and finishes up with another 20 or so feet of sustained tough climbing to the chains. i think what's holding my interest in this place is the fact that it's so bouldery and really steep, also taking 25-30 foot whippers with no worries of breaking yourself is pretty fucking fun. So until Bishop clears up a bit (hope to fucking god it's soon) i'll be spending a few more weekends at Jailhouse trying to build up some endurance and at least climbing on mostly dry rock.